Pattern Review · Sewing · simply by ti fabrics

Pattern Review Simplicity 8056

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I have a new make to share with you today. I am excited to share Simplicity 8056 that I made with this lovely Burgundy Stretch Twill from Simply by Ti.

The sweatshirt that I am wearing is Simplicity 8529 (a toaster sweater) out of a cashmere fleece (a wearable muslin for this project with Minerva Crafts).

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I am calling this project a wearable muslin. This was my very first time sewing a pair of traditional woven slacks.

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Pattern Description: These stylish pants in two lengths or shorts are designed to fit comfortably 1″ (2.5cm) below the natural waist, feature front inset pockets, fly front zipper, darted back and contoured waistband fastened with a hook closure and concealed button.

The pants or shorts when sewn have approximately 2 1/2″ (6.3m) of ease for Misses’ sizes 3″ (7.5cm) for Women’s sizes in the hip/seat area.

Regardless of where the waistband is designed to finish, the fit is still based on the Standard Body Measurements.  Use your knowledge about your body and your personal style to help you choose both your pattern size and your pattern future type.   In this pattern we have included individual pattern pieces for SLIM, AVERAGE AND CURVY FIGURE types that help get a better fit.  The pattern pieces are developed to allow for the shorter or longer back crotch length needed to accommodate the different figure types.  Follow instructions carefully for determining your personal figure type.  We also include fit as you sew fitting techniques, 1″ (2.5cm) seam allowances in key areas and professional amazing fit tips to help you get the best results possible.  We suggest starting with a muslin fitting shell like the professionals do, so that you can work out your fit without the stress.

Pattern Sizing:

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I picked a straight size 16 with an Average fit.

Did it look like the photo/drawing when you finished sewing? Yes

We’re the instructions complete and easy to follow? Yes

Fabric used (did you use the suggested fabrics in the pattern)? A Burgundy Stretch Twill**. I loved the stability of the fabric but yet the stretch made fitting very cozy. This was my first time working with a stretch twill and I really really liked this fabric. The density of the fabric made it such that I could focus on the fit and not have to fiddle with a tricky fabric that was more challenging to work with. I would love to make more bottom weight projects with this fabric. I quite enjoyed the burgundy color as well. Finishing up this make now was great timing for fall wear.

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Did you alter the pattern in any way?  I decided to work with the amount of fabric that I had on hand which was 2 yards of a 60 inch wide fabric. I modified the length to cut at the shorter pant length (version B) at a size 10.  This length ended up being a wearable length (which I think was more so because the crotch was low, lengthening the pants).

Was there anything you disliked or would change?  In the end I was not happy with the fit of the crotch. In my opinion the crotch ended up much baggier than I would’ve liked. I did try to take in the crotch through multiple attempts.  I found that as much as I needed to take in the crotch, I was limited with the construction order to not be able to take in as much as I needed to (without the crotch area looking more odd).  The pattern does allow for fit adjustment at this step but the amount that I needed adjustment was larger then the pattern allowed.

The picture below shows the fitting process of taking in the crotch area. I repeated this process four times but took out the last seam (as the pants started to look more wonky when I took in too much material in this area).

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I think part of this challenge was my own fault. The pattern offers three different fits:

  1. Slim
  2. Average
  3. Curvy

by measuring your crotch length. I was going to have my husband help me with this measuring step up front but he ran out of time and I decided to measure myself. I am curious if, with his help to measure, I would find myself at a different crotch length which in turn would have pointed me to a different suggested Fit to start with? I think of myself as more average or curvy (being a pear shape) but I’m wondering if the pattern would have me use a slim fit. Sometimes Simplicity patterns can run large.

Would you sew it again?  I think so, although I have learned from this experience that I need to first take a more accurate measurement of my crotch length. I then need to compare the crotch length ahead of time. In times past where I have sewn knit pants and the crotch length was too long I would take out the extra length in the waistband, to raise the crotch. If I sewed this pattern again I would love to do these steps up front.

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Would you recommend it to others?  I think so. I think for those that are like me and are starting out with making woven pants, this is a great one to dip your toe in. There are many fine details within the pattern that impressed me. The pattern includes tips along the way for fit and finishing details. Some of the details that were included that I thought were really nice are:

  • Pocket facings

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  • Garment standard side seams for more fit adjustment (1″ Seam allowances in the side seams)
  • A reinforced crotch
  • Three fit options (slim, average, and curvy)
  • Darts in the back

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Do you consider the pattern beginner/intermediate/advanced?  Although a lot of lovely details were included in the pattern I would consider it more of an intermediate pattern. The pattern, in my opinion, does not assume that you are a new pants sewer. There are details that are given for added couture but the pattern does not include a lot of “handholding” that I have seen in more advanced beginner patterns.

As I have shared this being my first time sewing a woven pair of pants I would encourage anyone that is adventurous to jump in and give these a try.

Does the pattern include layers for easy printing? No, this pattern is a tissue paper pattern.

Seam allowances used in the pattern: Varying seam allowances. 5/8″ and 1″ at the side seams.

Is the pattern cut or no cut pages?  Not applicable. This pattern is a tissue paper pattern.

I found in the end as well that personal preferences come to play with a project like this. Although I like the finished product I think I would enjoy trying a pattern that has a different order of construction. The fly with this wearable muslin wasn’t perfect and so I would enjoy trying a different construction method, the next go around, to improve my fly sewing skills.

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I tapered the waistband back to help improve fit. I brought in the waist approximately 0.75″ from the seam allowance in the back waistband seam.  The next time I would sew this dart more gradually (then I did, shown in the picture).

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After wearing the pants a bit I’m thinking another personal preference I have is to have belt loops included in the pattern. The pattern offers a professional looking fit and style but if you’re like me and enjoy wearing a belt as your weight fluctuates, you do not have a belt option with this pattern.

There are a lot of pattern pieces included in the pattern (11 to be exact).  If you’re not use to using this many pattern pieces in one pattern (as I have not be use to) this detail can get overwhelming.  I found it easier to keep breaking down the steps one by one and follow the pattern slow and steady.  I kept each of the smaller waistband, fly, and pocket pieces separate in a wire basket (and kept the original pattern pieces with the fabric pieces, for reference).

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Simply by Ti

**I’m a Simply by Ti Ambassador and received the fabric mentioned in this post as complimentary fabric in exchange for review and promotion.  The fabric selected was my choice and the views expressed are my own.

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